Santander is where I was born – a beautiful city on the northern coast of Spain, where rabas (fried squid) and croquetas are the stars of every good aperitif. The city itself stretches along the coast in a long, narrow shape and it’s built on a slope, which means if you’re walking uphill, expect to feel a bit knackered by the time you reach the top.
For me, the most picturesque part of Santander is the stretch from Los Reginas – the boat company where my mum used to work – all the way to El Sardinero. Los Reginas runs ferry services to Somo and Pedreña, two towns that are incredibly close to my heart. I grew up in Somo before we moved across the bay to Pedreña, where my dad’s whole family is from. My mum, originally from Bahillo, made a new life by the sea with him.
This coastal walk offers stunning sea views, elegant villas and those dreamy mansions owned by people who, let’s be honest, probably have more money than us. The beaches here are dotted all along the coast and the water is famously cold… which, for me, is perfect. I’ve always loved a bracing dip. You’ll also find Mataleñas, a hidden cove surrounded by cliffs, and of course, the local golf course where Severiano Ballesteros – Pedreña’s own golfing legend and my dad’s old friend – learned to play.
Santander has it all: fantastic seafood, striking architecture, honest and straightforward people that reminds me a little of Naples – full of character and warmth in its own unique way.
It’s like San Sebastián, but half the price and just as good.
Definitely a must-visit.